Apes in the Snow

Most of my subject matter in Morocco was people and places, so it was a real treat to do a little wildlife photography while driving through the cedar and pine forests and barren, rocky landscapes of the Middle Atlas Mountains on the way to Midelt.

This area is populated by nomadic shepherds tending their flocks, while the cedar forests are home to Barbary apes, North Africa’s only monkey, who were totally unfazed by the thick layer of snow on the ground.  They are fairly habituated as far as tourists go, but seemed to be a lot more relaxed than the Chacma baboon troops on the Cape Peninsula where I live, where the interaction between man and baboon has become problematic*.

See some of my earlier posts about the Chacma baboons that share the place I call home by following the links below:



Sahara Sunrise


I took over 1000 photos during a recent trip to Morocco, but if I had to chose only one favourite, it would be this shot taken at sunrise in the Sahara Desert.

For me photography isn’t only about skills and good cameras, but also about being in the right place at the right time.  This particular capture is the payoff for sleeping cold in a humble tent during the coldest Moroccan winter in a decade with the wind lashing the tent entrance throughout the night.  I had woken before most of the camp to photograph the sun coming up in the dunes when this small train of camels appeared out of nowhere and crossed my path.

This is what photography is all about 🙂

The Great Elephant Census

I’m not one to re-blog other people’s content, but the statistics in this post by fellow Tip of Africa blogger Liz from “Nature on the Edge” are mind-blowing and sickening.  It’s time we all did something about the plight and the future survival of these gentle giants before it’s too late!


It’s alarming to read the results of the Great Elephant Census (GEC) released by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (UICN) in Hawaii on Friday (2nd September).  The report…

Source: The Great Elephant Census

Fifteen Things I learned on an Overland Adventure Tour


Botswana had been on my Bucket List since my brazen love affair with elephants began some years back. All I knew when I began my search for a suitable tour was that I had to go, that whatever I did needed to be affordable, and although I wanted to be right in the middle of those beautiful wide-open spaces teeming with wildlife, I wasn’t prepared to camp. Camping and rheumatoid arthritis aren’t good bedfellows, but I also didn’t have the budget or appetite for an upmarket lodge where I would probably only get a tiny taste of the bigger experience. After all, I can sit drinking ice-cold G&T’s watching the sun dip below the horizon at home, all the while hoping that an elephant herd might just appear out of nowhere!

And so it was that I boarded an overland truck-cum-bus for an eight day accommodated journey starting in Windhoek and ending in Victoria Falls.

As a first time “overlander”, this is what I learned:

  1. Water really is the essence of life, and your new best friend on an overland trip. Bottled water that is, not the tap variety. Drink loads of it to stay hydrated, especially in the scorching summer months.
  2. The Overland crew have a language of their own and you’ll learn some choice phrases in no time. “Bushy bushy” is code for the nearest shrub or bush when there isn’t a proper toilet in sight and you absolutely have to “go”. In Botswana cattle are left to their own devices and are jokingly referred to as “Botswana policeman” because they’re always on the road.
  3. Overland truck drivers are expert at slowing down for and avoiding “Botswana policemen”, donkey carts (aka “Botswana 4×4’s”), stray livestock and herds of elephant who want to occupy the road at the exact time you want to pass.
  4. You are going to have an “African Massage” for most of the journey, whether you signed up for it or not. Overland trucks are not luxury coach tours and bouncing along discovering parts of your body you hadn’t met before are all part of the experience.
  5. “Bushy bushy” beats public toilets at border posts hands down. No exceptions here. Rather commune with nature! 02-IMG_3448
  6. You are not going to be able to stop for every photographic opportunity, so prepare for a lot of “drive-by shooting” at uber-fast shutter speeds. Granted, National Geographic won’t be buying up your photos in a hurry, but the trade off is that your pics will capture life on the road authentically, as it happened.03-6-IMG_2807
  7. Packing a hairdryer is a complete waste of time in summer. You may use it once – like on the last night when the group meets for a farewell dinner. Rather use the space in your bag for extra deodorant and extra mosquito repellent.
  8. The more you pack, the more you have to carry. And worry about.
  9. Complimentary hotel shower caps stop at least some water from the Victoria Falls Rainforest getting in your camera equipment.
  10. Forgetting your toothbrush is not a complete train smash. In southern Africa, Mother Nature had the foresight to provide the “toothbrush bush”. Just make sure there isn’t a big cat tucked away in there when you stop to pluck a twig. 26-IMG_2003
  11. Your tour guide is focussed on keeping between 12 and 20 people from diverse backgrounds happy simultaneously. Compromise is king if you are the only person who wants to do yet another early morning game drive and everyone else would rather head for the border at first light before the mad rush.
  12. Expect the unexpected. The unplanned things add a new dimension to the overall experience.
  13. Border control officials do have all day and you’re always going to get someone who bucks the system or jumps queues.  2-IMG_3440
  14. Being without Internet connectivity is not as traumatic as you might imagine. It’s actually incredibly liberating, so kick off your shoes and enjoy the ride. Remember to keep those shoes close by though for the inevitable human stampede when the truck eventually approaches a wi-fi zone. And finally:
  15. Overseas tourists really shouldn’t join tours of Africa expecting the guides to barbeque the same way they do “back home”. African tours employ local guides to do what they do best – provide an “all African experience”. Interfering or taking over is rude and let’s face it, none of us really want steaks like you make each 4th of July while we are immersing ourselves in all things African. (Yes folks, it really happened on my tour!)